Its Isa Morgan

Table of Contents

Introduction

I had the privilege of participating in Catwalk for the Cats – a benefit fashion show where the proceeds went toward Comfort and Joy Cat Cafe and Teller County Regional Animal Shelter. This show was organized by the lovely Autumn Olive.

My collection, “Tabbies for Trans Rights,” seeks to highlight transgender identities. Each of my sweaters focused on a different sub-identity under the trans umbrella. The cat cardigan represents trans femme folks. and was modeled by a trans woman named Talia (she/her & he/him).

This Cat Cardigan stands out from the other two sweaters in the collection, both of which are tapestry pull overs. When I was designing the collection, I debated making a 3rd tapestry pull over to represent the trans feminine community, however I opted to go this route to add some variety to the collection.

The cat stitch is one of the first non-standard stitches I learned, so it holds a special place in my heart. Because the cat stitch necessitates color changes and striping for the pattern to stand out, it lended itself perfectly to a pride flag colorations.

Buy the Sweater

The sweaters I made will be available for sale after the fashion show!

70% of the proceeds go toward Comfort and Joy Cat Cafe and Teller Regional Animal Shelter.

Check them out in my shop!

Special Stitches

Double Crochet Spike Stitch

This is essentially a double crochet, but you insert your hook into the space 2 rows down.

Yarn over, insert hook into space between [dc2, ch, dc2] sets from 2 rows before (i.e. into row 2 from the repeat). Yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through 2. Yarn over, pull through 2.

Set

For brevity, I use the term “set” to refer to a cluster of dc2, ch, dc2 worked into a single chain space or stitch.

Abbreviations

St: stitch
Ch: chain
Sc: single crochet
Hdc: half double crochet
Dc: double crochet
Ch Sp: chain space
Sk#: Skip the # number of stitches
DcSpk: Double crochet spike stitch
Set: A cluster of dc2, ch, dc2 placed all into the same stitch or ch sp

Cat Stitch Basics

The cat stitch is a 3 row repeat.

Set-up

Row 1: Ch a multiple of 4 to the width you want + 1
Row 2: Ch 3. Dc into 4th ch from the hook. [Sk3. Into next st: dc2, ch1, dc2]. Repeat between [ ] until 5 sts remain. Sk3. Dc into each of the last 2 sts.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc) and turn your work. Dc into 2nd dc from previous row. Into the ch sp: dc2, ch1, dc2. Repeat into each ch sp down the row. Dc into last dc from previous row. Dc into top of the ch3 from previous row.

Switch to next color

Main Repeat

Row 1: Ch 3 and turn. Dc into second dc from the last row. DcSpk2 into the space 2 rows down between the first 2 dcs and the first [dc2, ch, dc2] set. [DcSpk2 into the next space between sets 2 rows down. Dc2, ch, dc2 into the next ch space. DcSpk2 into the next space between sets 2 rows down.] Repeat for each set, placing your last DcSpk2 into the space between your last set and the [dc, ch3] from the previous round. Dc into last dc. Dc into the top of the ch 3 from the previous row.

Rows 2-3: Ch 3 and turn. Dc into 2nd st. [Into the next ch sp: dc2, ch1, dc2.] Repeat down the row to the last set. Dc into last dc from previous row. Dc into top of the ch3 from previous row.

Switch colors between each repeat, and continue until you’ve reached your desired height for the panel.

Last Row

Once you’ve reached your desired height for the panel, complete row z. This will make the panel have a flat edge along the top.

Use a different color from the last repeat. You will seam into this row, so if you have a yarn color you will be using for sewing up, use that color for a clean seam.

Row z: Ch 2 and turn. Hdc into second dc from the last row. DcSpk2 into the space 2 rows down between the first 2 dcs and the first [dc2, ch, dc2] set. Sc into second dc in the first set, 2sc into the ch sp, sc into the next dc of the set. [DcSpk2 into the next space between sets 2 rows down. Sk1, sc, sc 2 into ch sp, sc, sk1. DcSpk2 into the next space between sets 2 rows down.] Repeat for each set, placing your last DcSpk2 into the space between your last set and the dc, ch3 from the previous round. Hdc into last dc. Hdc into the top of the ch 3 from the previous row.

Inc/Dec with the Cat Stitch

You do not need to increase or decrease for this pattern, as it is worked in rectangular panels. However, I have included increase and decrease repeats in case you would like to add shaping.

Increase Repeat

Row 1: Follow row 1 from the main repeat until you have completed the last 2DcSpk. 2dc into the last dc from the previous round. Dc into top of the ch3 from the previous round.

Row 2: Ch3 and turn. Dc into first dc. Into next dc: dc, ch, dc. Complete the row by follow row 2 from the main repeat by placing one [dc2, ch, dc2] into each ch sp and ending with 2 dcs.

Row 3: Follow row 3 from the main repeat until you have worked into the last set from the previous row. Into the ch space between the two dcs from the previous round, [dc2, ch, dc2]. Dc into the last dc from previous round. Dc into top of the ch3 from the previous round.

Decrease Repeat

Row 1: Follow row 1 from the main repeat until you have one set left. Dc, ch, dc into the ch space of the last set from the previous row. DcSpk2 into the next space between sets 2 rows down. Dc into the last dc from the previous round. Dc into top of the ch3 from the previous round.

Row 2: Ch3 and turn. Dc into first dc. Dc into the ch sp from the [dc, ch, dc] from the previous row. Complete the row by follow row 2 from the main repeat by placing one [dc2, ch, dc2] into each ch sp and ending with 2 dcs.

Row 3: Follow row 3 from the main repeat until you have worked into the last set from the previous row. Sk the dc that is placed into the [dc, ch, dc] from 2 rows down. Dc into the last dc from previous round. Dc into top of the ch3 from the previous round.

Cardigan Pattern Notes

The basis of this cardigan is 5 panels + ribbing.

Back Panel

Width: Measure around the largest part of your torso and divide that number by 2. This is the width of the back panel. Chain the width, ensuring it’s a multiple of 4 + 1.

Height: Measure from the top of your shoulder to the length you want the cardigan to hit minus 2 inches (this will be filled by the ribbing).

Panel: Start with the Set-up rows, the do the Main Repeat until you reach your height measurement. Finish with the End row and fasten off.

Front Panels

In my version of the cardigan, I did the front panels as rectangles with no shaping. If you would like, you can use the decrease repeat just below the armpit for arm shaping, or along the inside to make a v-neck.

Width: Measure the circumference of your neck. Divide this by 2. Subtract that value from the width measurement from the back panel divided by 2 then subtract 1 additional inch for the ribbing (or don’t for a looser fit). This will be the new width for each of your front panels. Chain the width, ensuring it’s a multiple of 4+1.

Width_front = (Width_back / 2) – (NeckCircumference / 2) – 1

Height: Use the same height measurement as the back panel.

Make 2: Start with the Set-up rows, the do the Main Repeat until you reach your height measurement. Finish with the End row and fasten off.

Sleeve Panels

The sleeves are worked from wrist up to ensure the cats aren’t upside down.

To keep things simple, we are going to crochet the sleeves as rectangle panels and sew them up. Keep in mind this will give a “balloon sleeve” style. If you want to tailor your sleeves a bit more, you can start with a smaller base chain and increase to your desired width.

Width: Measure around the largest part of your arm – usually around your bicep. Add an inch for looser sleeves.

Height: Try on the body of the sweater and measure down your arm from where the shoulders end to where you want your sleeve to sit. Subtract 1 inch for ribbing.

Make 2: Start with the Set-up rows, the do the Main Repeat until you reach your height measurement. Finish with the End row and fasten off.

Seaming the Panels

With right sides facing together, place the two front panels on the back panel. Sew along the top and sides. On the sides, leave the sleeve width/2 open.

Fold the sleeve in half long ways, right side in, and sew the two sides together. Turn the sleeve right side out.

Sandwich one sleeve between the back panel and one of the front panels so that the right sides are touching. Line up the top of the sleeve with the opening in the side of the sweater. Seam around. Repeat for the other sleeve.

Ribbing

We are going to do ribbing along the wrist of each sleeve, along the bottom, and around the front/neck. I like to do ribbing using sc blo (back loop only) as follows:

Row 0: Insert your hook to wherever you want to start your ribbing and pull up a loop. Ch 1 inch (I used 10 for worsted weight yarn).

Row 1: Ch1 and turn. Sc blo into each chain. Sl st into each of the next two stitches along the main sweater.

Row 2: Sk the sl sts, sc blo into each sc from previous row.

Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Sc blo into each sc from previous row. Sl st into each of the next two stitches along the main sweater.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 around. When working ribbing on the sleeves, sl st the last an first row together. Fasten off.

You can also crochet the ribbing separately as a sc blo panel with 1 inch width and then sew onto the sweater if you prefer.

You will crochet ribbing around each wrist, along the bottom, and then up one side of the front (including along the side of the bottom ribbing), around the neck, and down the other side of the front (including along the side of the bottom ribbing).

If you’d like to add buttons, sk one stitch in the middle of the row for each row where you would like a button to go on one side of the front. Sew buttons to the corresponding stitch on the other side of the front panel.

The Collection

Check out the pattern notes for my Burn the Binary and Kitties instead of Titties sweaters here: